PUGLIA ! OUR ITALIAN TRAVEL DIARY
BY MARCIA LEONE
Coming from a big Italian family, I’ve travelled to Italy many times, but this was the first time visiting the Puglia region, and also the first time in Italy as a family of four. Puglia has become famous in recent years with the help of the iconic- better than a postcard- images that seem to flood our Instagram feeds every Australian winter!
The breathtaking ancient clifftop towns jutting out to the turquoise sea make for the most dramatic landscapes, but it really is the simple charms - quaint fishing villages, olive groves, beautiful people and rustic cuisine that make Puglia more laid back and authentic than some other Italian tourist destinations.
We went in early October when the weather was still warm, but the summer crowds had gone. The ocean was a little too cold to swim, but it was warm enough to lay in the sun and swim in the pool. I would say September would be the perfect time to go if you want to swim in the ocean.
We stayed in Rome for 2-3 days either side of our trip and had the most amazing time walking the streets enjoying the food, culture, history and shopping. We stayed in a 2br apartment in Trastevere affiliated with Tree Charme hotel and stayed at Tree Charme Parliament on the return and found them both amazing locations and very comfortable and reasonably priced.
GETTING THERE
The train from Rome to Ostuni took approximately 5.5 hours including changing at Bari. On the return we had a car and drove to Bari to get the direct train to Rome- about 4 hours direct. You can also fly from Rome approximately and hour, but I’m glad we chose the train - the kids loved it and we could see the beautiful scenery out the window- much better than hours in airport security!
Its best to have a car to explore the region.
WHERE WE STAYED
Our first accomodation was Masseria Le Currube about 10 minutes drive from Ostuni - a dreamy whitewashed town with a jumble of houses, churches and charming piazzas surrounded by quaint country side and endless olive groves. The Masseria was a beautiful traditional farmhouse with a restaurant pool area and 14 private suites. This was our perfect welcome to Italy- a beautiful rustic building surrounded by thousand year old olive groves, traditional and tranquil but with all the comforts of aircon, mini bar, wifi and TV. There are two pools- one heated and one perfect for children. The buffet breakfast was just beyond- delicious local produce (and hello Nutella Pie!) This Masseria was such an understated, beautiful experience. Highly recommend.
It’s a good idea to base yourself around Ostuni, as there are many different accomodation options with the beach and day trip destinations a short drive away. If you prefer a in-town/beach experience, Monopoli and Polignano a Mare a great places to base yourself as well.
After almost a week in and around Ostuni we drove down to southern Puglia. We stopped at the art-filled town of Lecce, and then continued onto Castro - a gorgeous little fishing village. We stayed at Lamanna’s Hotel a basic accomodation in the most amazing position overlooking the ocean with a natural rock pool and cool rooftop bar. Not the most child friendly accomodation to be fair (lots of stairs and walks out to the ocean rocks). It also rained for the 2 days we were there and the ocean was pretty rough, but I can imagine in the summer it would be amazing. It was here we enjoyed the best custard croissant we’ve ever tried- so for that reason alone it’s a winner.
15 minutes up the road is the upmarket spa town Santa Cesarea Terme- famous for the hot springs. We stayed at Est Hotel a modern 4 star hotel with beautiful rooftop overlooking the town. A beautiful spot to take in the views with a coffee or vino and listen to the church bells (while chasing toddlers ;)
Our final and best accommodation was Masseria Torre Coccaro. A stunning traditional farmhouse/ 5 Star accomodation - boutique feel with luxurious resort style ammenities , this place is perfect for families and was recommended by our Italian friend who has children. It’s little more expensive (nothing compared to the nearby Borga Egnazia) than our other accomodation, but in my opinion definitely worth it. After almost 3 weeks on the road with the kids, the kids club and babysitting service was celebrated! There is a private beach club exclusively for guests about 10 minutes drive from the property and a large pool, poolside bar and restaurant and dedicated kids area. There are bikes to ride around the property, lots of room for the kids to run and explore -and a beautiful day spa and possibly the best hotel gym I have seen. The food was extraordinary. We ate lunch at the beach club or by the pool and ordered room service most dinners as the restaurant was a little too fine dining to relax fully with a toddler. In the summer time they have evening kid’s club so you could enjoy an adult’s only dinner. The accomodation was seperate little bungalows, one or 2 bedroom. This place was truly the highlight of our whole trip.
PUGLIA HIT LIST
Polignano a Mare- Perched dramatically on the edge of a craggy ravine, this seaside town is literally a living postcard. The rocky beach is a not the most comfortable to lie on for the kids, but the clear water and experience makes it a must- just wear slides- and bring a beach chair!
Monopoli - This charming medieval coastal town is home to one of the most popular beaches in Puglia. Ancient churches and winding alleys makes this the most charming place to wander and eat.
Ostuni - One of the most beautiful towns in Southern Italy, this hilltop whitewashed city is surrounded by olive groves. A great place to go for dinner and wander through the piazzas and windy lanes. We were told by the locals that July and August are pretty full on with tourists.
Alberobello - this gorgeous little town is known for its truly whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs and a maze of hilly cobblestoned paths. It’s like walking into a fairytale. Albeit a very touristy one.
Sassi di Matera - not technically in Puglia, this is the oldest city in Italy has to be seen to be believed. This place actually took my breath away.
FOOD
I’m not going to recommend places to eat, because well- it’s italy and hard to find places that aren’t delicious. We loved just wandering the lanes and finding somewhere to eat, before our nightly gelato and a passeggiata- which became quite the tradition and a hard one to shake returning home. Puglia- Ti Amo!
